A R C H I V E
India-Letters #4: Of Sunsets, Short Hair & Sunday
June 5, 1999 Dear friends, I discovered yesterday that the city at dusk is Bangalore at its most beautiful. I'm not sure why the concept of the sunset hadn't really crossed my mind here. Isn't it amazing how you can sometimes go for days and days without actually consciously noticing the sun rising or setting? In between the last several sunrises and sunsets, I've had a few experiences that I mentally noted to share with you all. And I will. But first let me tell you what this city is like just before nightfall. BANGALORE AT DUSK Last night, I head down Mahatma Gandhi Road (aka M.G. Road) on foot toward a Chinese restaurant where I was to meet Meeta for dinner. As I leave my complex, the sound of the traffic erupts then slowly dissolves into a dull roar as I pick my way around the broken sidewalk of the first block. At the intersection, I notice that the man I buy coconuts from was down to his last of the day. His daytime neighbor's remaining wares, a few papayas and banana bunches, look like the traffic's exhaust had gotten the better of them. Neither of them notice me and I zigzag through the informal convention of rickshaw drivers that is everpresent on this corner. Block 2 and I'm reflecting on my day. I step well clear of a sleeping pile of stray puppies. Cute as can be, but a unseeming dog's attempt to get a jawful of my calf a few weeks ago has me on the wary side. (Note to maternal figures: I was wearing blue jeans and there was no teeth to skin contact. Rest easy.) Anyway, the dogs fade away as my feet cover ground, now and then keeping up with a slow-moving double-decker city bus. I let my eyes wander across this shaky looking behemoth. It's pulled by a tractor-trailer-type front, with a stairwell near the rear where a second bus staffer collects fares in a catch-as-catch-can fashion. All shades of Indian faces fill the windows, women clad in traditional garb in front, and men in untucked button-down shirts and slacks in the rear. Several men hang off the back entrance to the bus, looking like they are testing its balance. As my eyes trailed up the verticle line of the back of the bus, they run into the point of this exposition, an amazing sky. It's just dark enough so that I could no longer make out the dust or smoke in the sky, and it's as if I'm in a different city. The heat of the daay has lifted and the sky is a dynamic mix of purple, blue, and a golden yellow. A lit fountain that looks out of place during the day reveals it's beauty. Even the billboards along this road look majestic at this moment. I try to imagine what this city must have been like 50 years ago. Before independence, still under British rule with all the Brits' pomp and circumstance... Before auto emissions wrecked their havok on the air... When the lush green of the city made it a destination and respite from the heat of the region... All at once the crowd of people I'm in the middle of becomes a set of actors in the romantic, confused drama of a city's story. I think I'm beginning to settle in here and make the mental transition from outsider to resident. India as a whole, and Bangalore especially, is a fascinating history to be part of. Such a rich past, a tenuous present, and a future wide open to be the ultimate success story or the most tragic disaster. I know that my actions won't do much to determine which future materializes, but it's undeniable that I'm now at least a bit player... And what else do bit players do but carry out the routines of daily life, but with a little added humour and creativity? Read on... THE MEN'S BEAUTY PARLOR Gone. All gone. Well, most of it. I got my hair cut short. Very short. And what an experience it was... I wanted to move into minimum hair maintenance mode. For men, that means letting your facial hair grow while getting your hair chopped as short as you can stand. So pressing was this desire that I followed a sign reading "Men's Beauty Parlor" onto a side road and located the actual parlor itself, which announced itself with a second sign: Men's Beauty Parlor We heartily welcome you. I arrive at the entranceway at the same moment as a Indian man does. He's a few years younger than me with a slightly beat-up look to him, and I momentarily panic at the thought of a conflict about who will get his haircut first. Without words, though, he insists that I enter first. So I step inside and get the attention of the man inside, who is in the the last stages with another customer. I touch my hair and say "haircut?" "Huh," he says nodding, and motions me to sit down in a tiny waiting area. ("Huh" is Hindi for yes, and I'm finally over my instinct of assuming people didn't understand me when they were actually giving me a positive response.) I sit down and survey the place. Looks like your average barber shop in the States except it's built in a light-colored unfinished wood and isn't as fanatically clean. Meanwhile, I notice that the beat-up looking guy has completed some sort of prayer ritual at the threshold to the shop and now enters, crossing directly through the shop and straightening up one of the chairs. Apparently, he works here. In this waiting area, a few well-worn magazines sit on the bench beside me. I flip through them and find an advertisement featuring a very short-haired, buff-looking guy. When main guy motions to me a show him the ad. "Short like this." He has me sit down and as he is dusting my neck with talc and putting a wrap around me, he is studying the ad very intently. I'll admit I was a little nervous. He begins to cut, though, chopping off big chunks of hair, and I shift to a mixed state of sentimentality for the disappearing hair and excitement for a change. By this point the beat-up guy, whose name I later learn is Nagesh, has a client and they are having a lively exchange in Hindi or Kannada, I'm not sure which. I drop into a somewhat zen state of silent haircut-getting. My only concern is that I haven't established ahead of time what the cost of the haircut will be. I've already learned this lesson getting our flat cleaned, so I'm mildly displeased with myself. Lucky for me, an Indian businessman drops in and asks in English the price of a haircut. 30 rupees and 15 for a shave. Cool. A few minutes after that, Nagesh addresses me in English. I've so tuned out the conversation as unintelligible that he has to repeat himself twice. "Where are you from, boss?" Boss? Well, whatever. "America. New York." Pleased, he now peppers me with questions as he works. How old am I, how long have I been in India, am I married, am I here for work or traveling. We trade names and I throw some questions his way. Nagesh is nineteen. He's been cutting hair for four years. Amidst are banter, he occassionally shifts back to a foriegn tongue, perhaps to update his client on my answers. Thrown into the mix were a few particularly interesting exchanges that I'll... "Where you're from, what is the price for a haircut, boss?" "A cheap haircut is about fifteen dollars US." "How many rupees is a dollar?" "It's 42 rupees to the dollar, so a haircut would cost over 600 rupees." They're a little surprised, but not much. It's just the sort of evidence that some people here use to rationalize ripping off foreigners. The exchange rate means that I'm incredibly wealthy here. It's a strange feeling, one that brings with it lots of questions about justice, opportunity and fairness. A little later... "Most of your people in America, they are Christians, boss?" "There are a lot of Christians but in America there are people of lots of different kinds of religions." I pause a debate sharing a thought. What the heck... "My father," I resume, "is Christian and my mother, she is Jewish." This has Nagesh astonished. "So which god do you pray to, boss?" I mumble an answer about not being very religious and Nagesh continues, "When you were small, your father was pushing Jesus and your mother the other?" "My parents weren't very religious, either." I take the opportunity to interrupt myself and ask my haircutter to make the cut shorter on top than he has. The rest of the experience continues without much incident. I decline the shave, pay my 30 rupees, plus a 5 rupee tip whose propriety I have no sense of. And I'm on my way... Meeta snapped a pic of my new haircut. Here it is...One more quick story for today... SUNDAY NEWSPAPER COLLECTION Whenever the doorbell to our flat rings, the potential for adventure or absurdity looms. There was the banana seller that came at 6:30 AM two mornings in a row, the guy selling pots and pans, the spring water delivery guys (3 guys to deliver two 5 gallon plastic bottles...), the sporadic piece of mail, and more. This past Sunday morning, though, a doorbell signaled the beginning of one of the most unusual experiences I've had. When the doorbell rang, I was lounging around reading dressed only in a lungi, a male Indian version of a sarong that's very common but inappropriate to answer the door in. So lightning fast, I threw on kurta pyjamas and raced to the door. Unbolted the top and bottom deadlocks and opened the door. Standing there was a averagely dressed mustached Indian man in his late twenties or early thirties. He held two bags. I looked at him, he looked at me. "Newspapers?" he asked. I threw him a quizzical look, since he didn't appear to have any newspapers to sell. "Old newspapers," he said. I glanced at my pile of old newspapers (we get the Times of India delivered each morning) and glanced back at him. "One minute," I said, and went to fetch the pile. Recycling as I think of it in the States doesn't seem exist here. But I had seen vegetable and fruit sellers wrap their product in old newspaper and even make little bags out of it, so I figured this was an interesting step in that system. I handed him the stack, and he seemed quite pleased. I gave him a nod and set to close the door. Before I could, though, he gestured with his hand and said, "Money? Paise?" This guy had some nerve, I thought, coming to my door unrequested and asking for my trash, then asking for money. "I have no change," I bluffed. He shook his head vigorously, reached into his own pocket and handed me five rupees. Then he nodded, turned and left with the papers. Fascinating... CAMERA BEARS FRUIT That's it for this letter, but here are a few photographs you might be interested in. First is a street ad for a web design class that's up on my street. Computer-related training is huge business here.
I saw this cow on the ride home from the market. The truck has the name of the state we're in, Karnataka, painter on the side.
And here's Meeta (aka Vanna White) pointing out where we live on our oft-consulted map of Bangalore.
Finally, keep the ideas, comments and good e-mail energy flowing this way. Meeta and I love hearing about what's going on "back west" and your comments help keep these letters interesting and fun to write. All my best, Luke